Here is an idea, which I did build and was using (note this was
before marriage and 3 kids) with the VB as it was meant to be…without
the stand. Warning after you have assembled the setup I describe below
and use it there might be early vertigo and you should sit down on some
of the flying (red alert) games. Now good luck and have fun.
MATERIALS:
Nylon or polyetheleyne mesh strapping 1” wide.
Adjustable buckles to match straps.
Large Upholstery snaps (get a kit with the hammer setter and mandrel)
Large Upholstery snaps with the screw posts.
Helmet that fits (motorcycle or laser tag, as available)
Plastic electronic project case for helmet counter weight
Lead weight (about 1 pound worth in various weight ranges)
Hot Glue and Hot glue Gun
Special Tools (recommend getting a Nintendo type socket/star
drivers-two
sizes/parts express now Radio Shack used to carry them in their
catalogue)
Needle and heavy-duty thread or (waxed nylon tooth floss).
Regular Headphones or ear buds.
Cable loom or regular wire ties.
Skill level: Intermediate model maker or general weekend garage Rube
Goldberg
Construction:
Lay out the helmet and the VB unit. Look for likely attachment points
to support the VB off the Helmet. Mark these points for future
installation of the snaps with the screw post. Remove the VB red cover
using the Nintendo socket drivers, you are doing this to insure the
screws don't cut up the internal circuit boards and wires. Install the
Snaps and clean out off any shavings. (I also had thought of making a
metal boom that might reach around and attach to the existing tripod
connection). Reassemble the VB cover to prevent unforeseen damage and
dust getting on the optics. Install the snaps on the helmet also, grind
off any sharp points that protrude or just put plastic plug over the
ends for improved fastener attachment strength. Next
Measure and cut the straps and sew/assemble with snaps and buckles the
harness. The snaps allow for a quick connection of the VB to the
helmet
but allow for easy removal. The adjustable plastic buckles to insure a
good secure fit. Now on the back of the helmet install the plastic
electronic project box and fill it with the lead weights, balance as
necessary. The counter weight is important and after balancing the
assembly moves easily with the operator.
Stereo: For the stereo effects use the phones with the hair band part
removed. Snake them into the ear depressions of the helmet. A hint is
to use hot glue to fasten them in place with for instant gratification
of assembly and if necessary repair removal.
Eye Shroud: The tricky part, which I have yet to fix to my liking but
was basically able to made work, was the face/eye surround. This part
really needs to block out all light, fit snugly, AND fit comfortable on
the face. I really never got it right and was continuously wearing out
my nose bridge, since I've got a larger than normal nose. However what
I did was first hack out a rough form from a high-density foam rubber
block, using my wife’s (then girlfriend) electric meat knife (when she
wasn’t looking) for a nice clean cut. Note that a nice vacuum-formed
vinyl covered component would have been great but...you know it didn't
happen. An alternative way I thought about and started on was using a
25-cent, garage sale discovered, diving/scuba mask silicone rubber
surround and then mate it to the OEM eye shield bracket.
Wear: Fit on head, adjust strap tightness, remove or add weight to
taste, Plug in various phone jacks, and controller cords, tie up the
loose wires, and run the power cord down your back back. Shorten the
free wires to allow just enough movement by the arms and hands. A
Velcro type wrist strap also helps the feeling of freedom.
Chris Mcadams.